Hungry In Saigon

If you walk down any street in HCMC you will probably find some amazing street food: it basically makes life here worth living. But I say that the best place to eat in Saigon is a local market. We usually track it behind scores of open-air cafes, jam-packed with young locals idly passing time on any Sunday morning. We settle in … Read more

Beer in Hanoi, Bliss in Cat Ba

Let’s start with beer. Vietnam’s capital is perhaps the loveliest in all of Asia, IMHO. Even as we approach it something felt particularly good. Air was fairly crisp, the zoom of traffic not to loud and there were mountains of fresh produce piled streetside, chatty people standing beside and enjoying a much. We were in … Read more

The Many Faces of Dali

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We leave Shaxi reluctantly, wishing we could just rent a house and stay forever. As we make our way out of the valley and towards Dali, however, we must register that change is coming soon. An express highway is already being built. Soon delicate bridges like this one will stand next to a concrete colossus. I’ve … Read more

Falling in Love with Shaxi

A hunter’s home, I’ve known it since Mali, can be a sign of good luck. When we roll into Shaxi valley I realise that I was right. This is the China of my childhood imagination, even though according to most guidebooks and to the 134-word stub from Wikipedia, this pace is not even sure to … Read more

South of Eden

Cycling China Tibet Shangri La Ta Gong

We decide to reach Yangtze River via Baishuitai, Haba and Tiger Leaping Gorge, but first we head to the Shangri-la market. Such mountain passes and dizzying switchbacks require a serious caloric load. The typical Tibetan breakfast can definitely accomplish either that, or give me a heart attack. Jon favours a bawl of yak soup and … Read more